Review from The New Yorker

TABLE TALK :: In search of the real tortilla
By Alma Guillermoprieto

Oysters were once so abundant in the transparent waters of the Thames that nice people turned up their noses at them and considered them food for the riffraff. Caviar was once gathered in such prodigious quantities from the Great Lakes that New Yorkers used to polish it off by the barrel.

These facts came to mind as I passed a Mexican restaurant, the Rocking Horse Cafe, in Chelsea, one day. A woman wearing a traditional Mexican checked kerchief was making ordinary tortillas in the window, turning them out with a handpress and a comal (a round griddle), for all the world as if she were on display at Bloominddale's.

It struck me that, however unusual such a performance might seem to a Mexican, at least New York can still boast of having free tortillas, which are becoming a luxury in Mexico itself.