Review from Interview

All The Dish
by Brad Goldfarb

With its wide sidewalks and clusters of spirited shops and restaurants, few stretches of Manhattan are as consistently carnival-like as the expanse of Eighth Avenue between 14th and 23rd streets, otherwise known as the heart of gay Chelsea.

But while the Day-Glo atmosphere may seem anathema to anything more than a protein shake, Rocking Horse Cafe is proof that serious food does not require a serious setting. With its brightly colored walls and compact street-side patio (designed for maximum interaction with the passing parade), it's a concept the restaurant wisely embraces.

Regardless of where you sit, however, it's clear that the kitchen here has been re-energized, serving the sort of inspired interpretations of Mexican cooking that made it a favorite a decade ago.

Some recent starter standouts include buttery lobster turnovers, incomparable guacamole flecked with red onion, and a recent special, black tiger prawns in a chipotle-butter sauce.

Main courses range from the traditional (burritos and enchiladas -- both excellent) to more inventive offerings such as a seared salmon "napoleon" layered with chayote.

Overall, desserts at Rocking Horse fail to entice, although the cinnamon-dusted corn chips served with the caramel-swirl ice cream strike just the right we're-having-a-fiesta finish.